Productive 12v 40 amp relay for High-Risk Applications
Reliable 12v 40 amp relay Designs for Commercial and Industrial Applications
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webanalysisworkerperson asked Both of my car audio amplifiers keep shutting off at the same time, can someone please help me troubleshoot?
Ok, so here's a little background... Recently I purchased a Pioneer avh-p4200dvd touch screen to replace my old fold-out avh-7500dvd. I used the same relay to bypass the parking break that I wired for my old unit (for educational purposes of course). I'm using the same aftermarket door chime module which has the 12v constant running out of it, so I've never had to run a different 12v wire from under the steering wheel like a lot of wiring kits call for. I'm using the same backup camera that I used for my other head unit. I've never had a single problem with my old head unit other than the fact that I hated the ipod interface. Once I installed the new head unit, every so ofter the sound cuts completely off (no lights dim, and nothing weird happens on the head unit screen like blinking, dimming, the timer keeps counting down, etc). It doesn't happen when I hit bumps (or come back on for that matter). My factory voltage meter goes down to about 10-11v, my bass amp kicks back on, my high amp kicks back on, and the voltage returns to 14v and my sound comes back. Then every so often it does it again. Sometimes it stays out for 10-15 secs or more, some times 1 sec or 2. Sometimes a bunch in a row. The amps themselves switch to protection when they cut-off. My two 1 Farad capacitors (2 Rockford Fosgate digital caps that are relatively new, and barred together with a distribution block and powered by one 4 gauge wire running from the battery.) say 14v when I start the vehicle (a 2003 Chevy Tahoe), and after about a minute they creep down to like 12.8v or so and stay there. I have a yellow top Optima if that helps. I recently replaced my alternator as well with a little larger one then what came with the truck. I just had my battery and alternator checked and they tested very well. My amps are an Infiniti 4-channel (75w x 4), and a Rockford Fosgate 2 channel (275wx2) running to two Rockford Fosgate DVC 10's (both rated to 300w). I'm running Rockford Fosgate components in the front door, and Rockford Fosgate 3 ways in the back doors, which are fairly low wattage. I've tried re-grounding everything up front to the frame (I'm also using a Pioneer add-on CD-BTB200 bluetooth unit). I've tried going over all of the wiring in my wiring harness (at least 20 times now). I've tried different sources and they all do the same thing (ipod, radio, dvd, etc.). I'm at a loss and really frustrated. I suppose it could be the head unit, the place I bought it from said they would replace it, but I have to pay a $40 processing fee to get a replacement, and I don't want to do that if it's just going to do the same with a new unit. My only theory is that the remote turn on wire is having an issue or something. How would I test that back at my amps? With a voltage meter? More importantly, what do I need to do to fix it if it is the remote turn on, just run another one? What else could it be? Thank you so much for your time in reading this. I really appreciate it.
And got the following answer:
I had some thing like this kick my ass. I thought it was the turn on wire so i just ran a bypass one to see if it would stay on and it didn't help. My problem it turns out was a F**king bad fuse holder in the wire from the battery. It looked ok but where the fuse had play where the caps connected on each side.
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