40 amp automotive relay

ANY Timer Rrelay
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Efficient 40 amp automotive relay for High-Risk Applications
Reliable 40 amp automotive relay Designs for Industrial and Industrial Applications
CHINA – ?¡ãAny Electronics?¡À proudly presents their complete variety of 40 amp automotive relay . They offer a total set of 40 amp automotive relay merchandise as well as other interrelated products. These units are seen in various applications for example industrial applications, industrial manage circuits together with OEM Panels. These devices come with fantastic precision and repeatability. The regular 40 amp automotive relay which are created as of late demand very tiny panel space.
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HELLA 007794301 Weatherproof 20/40 Amp SPDT Mini Relay with Bracket

  • High quality HELLA relays
  • HELLA quality and performance
  • Over 100 years of excellence in automotive lighting
  • Conveniently packaged

12 volt 20/40 amperes SPDT relay with bracket

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Price: $6.67


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ihatepenndot asked '94 HD Softtail Classic has no spark, read details, please? Need some pointers.?

Okay, my 94 FLSTC was running, but had exhaust leaking from the motor/exhaust mountings. We dismantled the exhaust, re-assembled it tightly, and had no spark, all of a sudden. Pulling the dash reveals loosened screws connecting wires to the ignition switch, which also explained a recently observed "ground fault". These were then tightened, one end connector replaced, as it had come apart from the wire as though it wasn't held together at all while tightening the screw to it. Motor chuffed halfheartedly, attempting to catch, briefly, then just stopped trying, cranking without any help from the motor at all. I checked for spark, voila', there's the reason..now as to why it now lacked spark. Checked for spark directly from the ignition module output, nothing. No juice. Decided to see if it was getting electricity fed to it, before dismantling enough to observe the components without a positive diagnosis necessitating I do so. Soooo..... I check the feed that connects to it, and it makes the voltage tester glow a sickly, weak orange, like a flashlight with fairly dead batteries. Every other place I check for juice that should be powered up, it glows much more brightly. Seems to me that the current isn't up to par just there, which I find odd. If it had NO power, I'd keep checking for a broken circuit, if I had to tear down the whole danged bike to do so. This isn't a lack of continuity, I have juice, just not enough to power the ignition module. WTF? Is there a part earlier in this circuit that could cause this type of resistance should it go bad, without severing the connection completely? Either from the factory, or any known aftermarket add-ons which might be able to cause this which I should look for? Any other reasons this could be occuring, besides an ignition circuit component having gone dead-ish? PLEASE, if you've any logical guesses, even, and know a little about bike mechanics, I'm all ears. If you truly know what has to be the cause, I'd LOVE hearing from you. Soon as I read any plausible hypotheses, I'll go look into it. First correct answer, or first VERY CERTAIN of their facts correct answer, depending, gets the points. As well as my sincere gratitude. Actually, I appreciate anyone's efforts who tries to help. Thanx, and PEACE

And got the following answer:

First off, I'm not real fond of those light bulb testers. I have one hanging on the wall but I don't know if I've ever used it. One thing you DON'T want to use it on are any fuel injection components. They usually run at around 5 volts and the light will pull too much juice through them. If I were in your situation, I'd check and see if you have juice at the small positive wire at the ignition coil. I haven't wrenched on the ignition of a newer Harley like yours, so I can't give you any wire colors. With the ignition on, your light tester should brighten up pretty good at that wire since that's battery voltage. If so, then you know the coils are being energized, which is good. To tell you the truth, I can't remember of your bike has two single lead ignition coils or one twin lead. The only difference that will make is how many wires are coming out of the ignition module. Most modules all function similiary, so you should have one 12V+ wire going to the mudule, one ground wire and one wire each coming from the negative side of the coil or coils. If you have two coils, you'll have two wires. These should also show 12V because the current is going into the primary coil winding and then out through the - terminal into the module. All the module does is ground out the negative coil wire at the appropriate time. You will also have two wires coming from the magnetic pickup coils. Two wires and one pickup if you have one ignitoin coil and four if you have two coils. All these guys do is create an electrical pulse when the crankshaft turns past them. The pulse is what tells the ignition module to ground out the ignition coils. If you were checking those guys, you probably would get a dim light. That all said, you want to make sure you're getting a full 12V to the module and 12V through the coils. You also want to make sure the ground wire is making good connection. Best not use the test light on the ground, pulling extra juice through some electrical components is hard on them. I'd be checking wire connectors to and from the module for looseness or corrosion. Some modules require the module housing be grounded well to the frame. If so, you might check behind it for corrosion. I know HD has used trip relay switches on several of its components for years, something the other brands could take a lesson from. A short somewhere is going to make it click, things will go dead and after you disconnect the juice, it'll click again as if closes. If you find the relays, turn the ignition on for a bit and feel of them to see if any are hot. My Kawasaki uses regular automotive type relays for the different circuits. I've had several go bad, usually starting with intermittent problems. At that point they'll feel warm, when they go completely they'll often feel down right hot. If any relays feel hot, you better change them. I do know that a number of early-mid 90's big bikes had problems of the relay tripping, killing the ignition in the middle of nowhere. I think it is a 20 or 30 amp relay, but not absoluttely sure. Most HD shops have a heavy duty 40 amp or so relay called something like a mega-relay, mega-fuse, super-fuse or something along those lines. You're probably thinking what in the heck does a relay or wire connections have to do with the exhaust work I did? Sometimes it has a lot, sometimes a little and sometimes nothing at all. While wrenching on the exhaust, you may have accidently tugged on some wires, pulling them loose. A bad connection may have been already occuring, but wiggling on things may have been the final straw. Or, the ignition problem may be completely unrelated to the work you did and is just coincidenally happened at that time. I've had that happen before and you'll go nuts finding them because you naturally go looking where you were working, not where you weren't. Good luck and if you need any assistance on finding novel combinations of cuss words, give me a holler because I've become a pro.


The 40 amp automotive relay perform very effectively with various applications which are precise to energy distribution and protection. The relays include wide adjustment ranges having a scale that is simple to read either in 3 or four digits according to the model. These 40 amp automotive relay enable in growing the flexibility of your applications, reduce the overall power and maintenance expenses. You can find relays that are applied for common purposes which come in trusted designs with swift replacement possibilities. And you will discover models which can be utilized for industrial applications and heavier duty applications that work on big loads. These items are created to meet the lifetime industrial manage demands from the applications.
Their most current products would be the Time counter, Timer Delay, 40 amp automotive relay, Speedy Connect Couplings, Electronic Motor Couplings, Aluminum Couplings, Morse Couplings and a variety of others. The internet site offers a detailed description of each and every model in different categories of 40 amp automotive relay couplings and sensors. These items are particularly valuable for high-risk applications. The 40 amp automotive relay are also available with attributes like many timing ranges and functions. The firm is presently looking for agents and dealers who can market and sell their factory produced solutions. They’re normally on a lookout for developing new and more dependable goods based on the requirements and requirements from the business.

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