Successful 5 pin 12v relay for High-Risk Applications
Reliable 5 pin 12v relay Designs for Commercial and Industrial Applications
CHINA – ?¡ãAny Electronics?¡À proudly presents their complete range of 5 pin 12v relay . They offer a complete set of 5 pin 12v relay solutions and also other interrelated products. These units are seen in different applications for instance industrial applications, industrial handle circuits and OEM Panels. These devices include outstanding precision and repeatability. The common 5 pin 12v relay that are created nowadays require very little panel space.
Productive 5 pin 12v relay for High-Risk Applications
Reliable 5 pin 12v relay Designs for Commercial and Industrial Applications
CHINA – ?¡ãAny Electronics?¡À proudly presents their whole range of 5 pin 12v relay . They offer a complete set of 5 pin 12v relay solutions as well as other interrelated merchandise. These units are observed in distinctive applications such as commercial applications, industrial handle circuits and also OEM Panels. These devices include great precision and repeatability. The normal 5 pin 12v relay which are developed lately need pretty tiny panel space.
5 pin 12v relay datasheet
5 pin 12v relay diagram
bosch 5 pin 12v relay
5 pins, SPDT type, PCB mount.Can adjust automatically, protect and transform the electric circuit.Used widely in the remote control, communication, automatic control system, electronic equipments, etc.
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Coggeshall asked Choosing a relay or transistor for my Arduino?
I've recently purchased an Arduino Mega and am attempting to build a circuit in which I am running several LEDs. I have to power them from an external supply that is capable of handling such a current, and from what I've read I think a transistor is what I'm looking for to use as my switch. Unfortunately while trying to shop for one, I realize that I have no idea what any of their specifications mean. I want to run several series 2-4 LEDs (link at the bottom) in parallel, ultimately reaching 24 LEDs in total, off a 5-12V AC-DC wall adapter. What sort of relay or transistor should I use to control the circuit? Ideally I want something I can pick up off the shelf at Radio Shack so I don't have to pay and wait for shipping. Thanks! http://www.ledsupply.com/l2-0-r5th50-1.php
And got the following answer:
It's not clear to me how many distinct ON/OFF sets of LED(s) you want. I gather you may wish to set things up so that several LEDs go ON and OFF together. But I may even be wrong about that. If you want to put more than one LED together to operate at the same time, you have two basic options that work well. One is to put all of them in series with each other. The upside here is that they will all operate with the same current (whatever is designed in.) The downside is that you need a voltage capable of driving the sum of their required voltages. Another way is to put them in parallel. The upside here is that you don't need a very high voltage supply. The downside is that you need separate current limiting resistors for each LED. You can pick your poison. As far as the Arduino controlling them goes, yeah. You are right. A transistor (BJT or MOSFET) is a good way to go. I prefer BJTs for several reasons. But the main one is cost. I get them for less than a penny each and I have unlimited supplies because of that. MOSFETS set me back lots more and I have a lot fewer of them. So I use them more where I know their advantages far outweigh the BJT. In this case, their advantages aren't THAT overwhelming. Let's say you want to put two LEDs in series and you want 12 sets of these pairs. (That's one way to account for 24 LEDs.) Let's also say you want to operate them at 20mA, too. The Vf (forward voltage) at 20mA is spec'd at 2.2V typical. This means TYPICAL. It doesn't mean GUARANTEED. You have to assume worse (more) than that for design. There are two factors that contribute to a higher voltage, LED to LED. Ohmic resistance and the "local slope" of resistance that is based upon a modified Shockley diode equation. I know from experience that I should allow about 200mV for these. So I'd use 2.4V worst case in the design. If you stack two of these, that's 4.8V right there. A BJT switching transistor will "eat up" another 200mV (probably less, but again I'm planning room.) So that's 5V. However, I also need some headroom for a resistor that limits current. And it has to be enough that if I'm wrong about the 2.4V and the LEDs only need 2.0V, that the current doesn't rise up too much. At this point I wonder what kind of handy power supply I have. Since I've already tossed out the idea of 5V, I might go to a very convenient Radio Shack value of 9V for the supply. That also gives me room for another thing -- crappy wallwart power supplies that you are likely to get from Radio Shack. Like 30% load margin on the crappy transformers they use. Under no load you might see 10V or 11V on it. Under some kind of real load with a cheap one, you might get 8.4V or something. Another thing to test. Bad ones can vary all over the place and include ripple, too. Anyway, let's say you've selected a 9V wallwart, plan on it giving you anywhere from 11V to 8.4V, and needing something like 5V for the circuit. So you need to waste (toss away) about 3.4V to 6V. What a range? I might choose a current sink at this point instead of a switch. Easier given the sloppy 9V rail. But let's say you don't. Your resistor needs to be 3.4V/20mA or 170Ω. (Nearby is 180Ω, from Radio Shack.) Or 6V/20mA or 300Ω. (Nearby is 270Ω or 330Ω from Radio Shack.) I'd probably pick the 270Ω. So what happens now? Well, if you get 8.4V and use up a full 5V for the switch and LEDs, then you get (3.4V) ⁄ (270Ω) or about 12.6mA. If you get 11V and your LEDs only need 2V each, than that's (11V-4.2V) ⁄ (270Ω) or about 25mA. Well, nothing will burn out, anyway. And since human intensity perception is logarithmic, it's not all that bad anyway. In parallel, you'd calculate each resistor about the same way but you could certainly use a 5V supply now. It's just you'd need more resistors. The BJT will require a limiting resistor between the Arduino pin and the BJT base pin. The emitter is grounded. The collector goes to the LED string. A current sink may be better with crappy wallwarts. Here you'd couple the Arduino pin directly up to the base of the BJT (no resistor there at all) and use a resistor between the emitter and ground. If the Arduino is 5V (I'm guessing), then the pin when HI will be about 5V (less a few tenths, perhaps) This means the emitter will be one diode drop below that. So the emitter should be say 4.8V - 0.8V or 4V. So there will be 4V across the emitter resistor. This will set the collector current pretty well. The only thing that will mess this up is the BJT getting hot. The diode drop will shrink, goes by -2mV ⁄ ℃, and that will slightly modify the current. But not enough to worry about. Anyway, at 20mA you'd want a 200Ω resistor there. Okay. So pick 180Ω or 220Ω, given it's Radio Shack.
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