5 pin relay socket

ANY Timer Rrelay
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Successful 5 pin relay socket for High-Risk Applications
Reliable 5 pin relay socket Styles for Industrial and Industrial Applications
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Absolute USA 5-Pin 12 VDC Interlocking Relay Socket, 10 Set

  • 5-Pin 12 VDC Relay Socket Interlocking Style
  • 6" Leads
  • 5 Terminal Relay
  • Prewired Relay Socket
  • 10 Set

Absolute SRS105-10 10 Set of 5-Pin 12 VDC Relay Socket Interlocking Style

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Price: $12.95


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asked 2000 Beetle Cooling Fans?

Hello. My daughter's 2000 Beetle with 2.0l engine has problems and I need to fix qucikly so she can go to work Friday. The AC is blowing hot air. Mechanic who looked at it last time says freon is ok, compress turns on if he hot wires to battery and it works. Fuses on top of battery are OK. I assume there is a control module somewhere that controls AC. Can you tell me where and how to get to it? Also, one radiator fan got busted today (blades broke off motor shaft) and second fan (driver's side) does not seem to turn on. (I turned on AC and fan did not come on). Are these problems related to AC? Could also the temp sensor be bad as there is very little heat in the winter? I don't know about the radaitor fans but the AC has not been working for over a year. Thanks.

And got the following answer:

OK. Your mechanic says the freon level is ok and the compressor works if he hot wires it. One radiator fan is busted and the other one is on the way out. There is very little heat in winter and no ac. That's going to take some detective work. You probably have several things wrong. The Fan Control Module turns the radiator fans on and operates the compressor clutch. I assume the fan switch inside the car works on all speeds and the ac button is doing what you want it to. The Fan Control Module is located under the battery underneath the frame rail. It's a black and white rectangle box with 2 connectors. A 10 pin connector and large 4 pin connector. Look down in front of the battery at the frame rail, and you will see 2, 10mm bolt heads that secure the module to the rail. Access the module from underneath the car. First check the fuses in the fuse panel in the left side of the dash. Fuse S5, a brown 7.5 amp, 5th row from the driver, top fuse of the smaller fuses, and Fuse S16, (compressor clutch), red 10 amp fuse, 2nd row from the driver, top fuse, of the smaller fuses. Check the fuses on top of the battery. They may look good, but have a poor connection. The green 30 amp fuse closest to the engine is for the fan control module. That fuse tends to melt the socket instead of the fuse and a poor connection to the module is the result. Fuse S164, 3rd flat fuse from the engine is for the radiator fans via the fan control module. Turn the ignition switch on, without starting the engine. Turn the ac on. Both radiator fans should run. Since your ac doesn't work, they may not run. If they do run, everything for ac operation is OK, and the problem is the Alternator wiring harness, or the pin is burned off in the 10 pin connector (T10), pin #10, the power wire for the ac clutch, at the fan control module. The radiator fans are 2 speed fans, wired in parallel, so when one runs, they both run. One or both are usually bad on low speed, the speed you're checking now, so if they don't run, disconnect them at the fan control module. The big 4 pin connector is for the radiator fans. The module houses the relay. Jump the terminals in the connector and make sure the fans run on both speeds. If they run on both speeds, you have an ac control problem. I assume the relay is good inside the module, because you don't say the engine is over heating with normal driving. Check the ac pressure switch. The switch leaks internally and fouls up the terminals. Pin 2 is a power wire from the ac switch, on the dash, via the fan blower resistor. Pins 1 & 2 are the low pressure side of the switch. It should be closed with a proper refrigerant charge. Pin 1 feeds the fan control module via the ambient temperature switch and the ac thermal cut-out switch. The ambient temp switch is in the plenum chamber under the cover beneath the right wiper blade. The cut-out switch is in the upper radiator hose near the battery. This switch is sometimes bad. Both switches should be closed. They feed power to the the fan control module at pin T10/ 8. Pins 3 & 4 of the ac pressure switch are the over-pressure side of the switch. The switch should be open. Pin 4 is a power wire from the S5 fuse. Pin 3 feeds the fan control module at pin T10/2. There should be no voltage on the wire. The wire at T10/5 is spliced to the wire at T10/8 for the ECM to increase the idle speed. There should be voltage on that wire. T10/3 is the tricky one. That wire goes to the ECM for the ECM to kill the ac. I don't remember if it is supposed to have voltage or not. Cut it and see if the ac clutch engages. If it doesn't engage, add voltage to it. If it engages, the wire is broken or the ECM is bad. If the ac clutch still won't engage, the fan control module is bad. Had enough yet? There's more. You say there is very little heat in the winter. 2 possibilities. The heater core is plugged up, or the blend door inside the ac/heater box is broken. Both fixes require dash panel removal and the ac/heater box removed. $$$. If you're lucky, you will find the problem rather quickly. I suspect the ac pressure switch or the ac thermal cut-out switch is bad. The alternator harness is a good possibility, too. It has a 4 pin connector on top of the starter that joins it to the car harness. The ac compressor clutch wires are in that connector. The wires are Tie-wrapped to other wires near the 4 pin connector and get broken by the Tie-wrap. Repair or replace the alternator harness.


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