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ahanix1989 asked Need help identifying an electrical component?
I'm not good yet with the names of different components of a car audio amplifier... I really only know of transistors, resistors, capacitors, relays... Trying to fix two JL Audio 500/1 amps, one has a part loose. Dunno what it is, I'm curious as to it's purpose. Blue box, two pins on the bottom. The marking on top says 106K100 Also, is there like, a quick reference sheet for the names of a number of different parts I'd be likely to see on a car audio amplifier? Thanks The amplifier puts out a quiet, unamplified signal, very distorted (unless it's just the settings, I've never used one this complex). I noticed the power light sort of "blinks", and one or two of the very very small blue boxes (according to Doug, probably capacitors) is making a ticking noise in sync with the light
And got the following answer:
I agree that looks like a capacitor marking 106 = 10 x 10^6 pF = 10 microfarads K = 10% tolerance 100 = 100V max rating. (a marking like 224 means 22 x 10^4 pF) The users manual and setting up procedure is here, if you don't have it already: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Slash_amps/500_1_MAN.pdf The "ticking" probably isn't coming from a capacitor, unless something is totally destroyed. More likely, if the power lamp is blinking on and off, a the relay or reed switch that disconnenects the speakers and prevents "thump" when switching on and off is clicking as it keeps cycling on and off. The main components in will be large scale integrated circuits, some of them custom-desgned by JL audio, some just standard parts. Some of them (e.g. the equalizer) may be digital audio circuits not analog. Most likely the controls on the panel will be "remote", i.e. they just send DC control voltages to the rest of the circuit rather than have the live signals flowing through potentiometers etc. All that means that without a full circuit diagram and troubleshooting information (test voltages etc) it's more or less impossible to make much sense of the circuit, apart from looking for obvious mechanical or thermal damage. If you don't have access to the specalist replacement parts (i.e. a trade account or access to somebody who does have one), then knowing what's wrong doesn't help much anyway. The obvious thing to try is re-solder the "loose" capacitor (strange that it should be "loose" in the first place, though). If the problem goes away, then you got lucky. If you then get a stable problem (no flashing lights, but still distorted sound etc) try getting a replacement capacitor (from one of the big mail order electronics companies) whch should only cost a few dollars at most. The component supplier's site should have details of the physical size and lead spacing, which are just as important as the actual component value! If it still doesn't work, you probably need a repair shop to fix it.
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