Successful relay test for High-Risk Applications
Reliable relay test Designs for Industrial and Industrial Applications
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Jose Cuervo asked My car died while driving what could be the problem?
Here it goes. I have a 1989 nissan 240sx that broke down on me a few a days ago, and I need some advice on trying to resolve the issue. This is how it happened. One morning I hopped in my vehicle on my way to school. I drove out of my apartment and 3 blocks down the road my car died on me. I coasted onto the shoulder and I thought, " dang, I bet you I snapped a timing belt or something." I pulled over expecting to see a piston out or something crazy and nothing seemed to be out of place." i thought let me check if my A/C compressor locked up on me." I got a wrench and spun the belt freely. At that point i was relieved because the valves were moving when i spun the crank bolt. Here's where it gets tricky.... I tried to crank my car and complete silence. I could not hear the fuel pump or starter or anything start up when i opened the switch. At this point I started to wonder whether my cables were lose or something easy to diagnose would magicly come to me. I got my voltmeter and tested the battery after testing the tightness of the battery cables.The battery read 12.7 volts so that told me that my charging system and battery were okay. I sat there for a minute, called for a tow truck and than went to go play call of duty for a while just to clear my head. Afterwards, I made my way back into the garage. I began to ponder up all the possible problems. i came up with bad ignition switch, which i dont know how to properly test, blown fuse or relay of some sort, somewhere, lose cables from switch to starter or from battery to starter, fried cables between ignition switch or bad ECM or ECU. I started to check relays but thats when it went downhill. Some relays had continous power with or without the key turned on and thats when I realized that i bit off more than i could chew. The cables from the starter to the batter were tight and even measure 12.7 volts even with the key turned on or off so im guessing that I didnt test the right stuff or else I'd get atleast a clicking noise or sound of the fuel pump kicking on. I took some advice on checking my ignition switch but realized that on these old cars the headlights can go up/ turn on or off without the key. When i insert the key and open my door the door chime turns on. My directional keys do not work when I try to operate them. I also noticed that not even my cabin blower motor turns on with the key all the way open. How do I test the ignition switch? What relays could possibly cause that and is there a way to test relays? Also when i read my fuse diagram not one of them mentioned anything about ignition stuff. My relay cover is blank due to the wear tear so i dont know which relay to test or how to test. Do you guys/gals have any input on this situation? Again car is dead silent when i turn the key and nothing gets power as far as fuel pump or starter goes. Headlights work without the key. My stereo is wired directly so it works only because its connected straight to the battery. cables are tight, car turned off while driving
And got the following answer:
First thing to check would be fuses. Not just anything related to starting the vehicle, but everything. After that, you can test relays using the method shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWmt6gorzUg Then you should check power at all the major components, starter, fuel pump, etc to make sure it's getting there. If not you'll need to trace the cables back to the battery to find the fault. Either way, I suspect it is indeed electrical, so you're on the right track. Good luck.
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